The South Island of New Zealand, part one. Coastal Otago and the
Catlins
(NOTE: There are no enlargements on the article photos, please
see gallery links at the end)
Welcome to part one of our Campervan journey around the South
Island of New Zealand. In this trip we travel across Cook Strait
to Picton and begin our travel down the East Coast of the South
Island to the southernmost city in the world, Invercargill. We then
travel to the less visited Catlins Coast. In part two we cross the
island to visit Milford Sound and the vast mountains of Fiordland.
We go to Te Anau and then to the adventure capital of Queenstown.
Also in part two we explore historic central Otago. In part three
we cross to Westland, travel Arthur's Pass to Christchurch and Hanmer
Springs, ending in an adventure in the Abel Tasman National Park.
I hope you find this article interesting and informative for your
own journeys to New Zealand. Maybe you know someone else who would
be interested.
New Zealand's South Island had long been a destination that people
travel to from the other side of the world. Often they return again
and again to rediscover the beauty and scenery. We have a saying
in New Zealand that we should not leave town till we have seen the
country as many Kiwis travel to far distant lands only to return
a blank stare once questioned on the splendour of the Southern Alps
or the majesty of Milford Sound. As a painter and photographer it
is my duty to explore my country documenting my journeys on canvas
and photography. It can be a tough way to make half a living.
It is the Autumn of 2008 and it is with anticipation that my wife
Cathy and I plan our month long road trip around and over the South
Island. This time we intend Freedom Travelling in our Delica van
exploring the roads we have not yet had the pleasure of finding.
Our van is usually a people mover so after removing the seats I
designed and built a Van-de-van. Basically a lock up storage cabinet
under a bed. I was proud of my achievement as the bed turned out
to be a heavy solid brute sporting an industrial contemporary design.
I won't go into specifics because my enthusiasm for sharing the
plans might run away with me. Let's just say; once built, I could
not fit it through the door. A problem quickly solved by cutting
it in half. Cathy joined in the effort by making some nice curtains.
With some perseverance we used multi screw picture hooks to attach
the wires to hold the curtains on. The only way we could hold them
to the flimsy interior lining in our van. It proved very stable
and not once were we pinged by a flying screw, thank goodness for
that. It turned out to be a cosy comfortable mobile bed and the
high roof 4wd Delica Van once again showing its versatility. A perfect
van for an adventure into the New Zealand wilderness.
 
Our vehicle and accommodations.
Freedom travelling in small vans has become increasingly popular
in New Zealand. A concept aimed at young couples by a core group
of fun and trendy rental agencies. We met many much younger people
pulling into camping grounds travelling and sleeping this way. Some
people choose to camp in reserves and in road rest areas and this
has given rise to litter and human waste issues over our busy summer
season. A problem that needs to be addressed by all who intend travelling
this way. Squatting in the bush and worrying about who might be
prowling around is not good, so we intended using and paying the
small prices for excellent camping ground facilities. Your personal
security and comfort is important to us in New Zealand.
Many camping grounds in New Zealand are in scenic and pleasing locations.
It is not uncommon to enjoy a glass of wine or dinner next to your
van and beside the beach or streams. The Department of Conservation
(DOC) run many camping reserves in fantastic locations such as all
our national parks. The DOC camps are cheaper than the commercial
camps with varying facilities. They are popular with freedom van
campers who want to get away from it all and enjoy the New Zealand
reserves and national parks. DOC also manage a vast network of tramping
huts and walking tracks in New Zealand. Most of DOC camps do not
have hot showers.
We set off on our journey to enjoy the Autumn of 2008 with an eight
hour drive from our home in Tauranga to the capital city of Wellington
and our Ferry over the Cook Strait. We chose to save the nights'
accommodation with a 2am sailing and managed to catch some sleep
in our van at the departure terminal. The sailing between the North
and South Islands of New Zealand takes about 3 hours. I would not
recommend a night sailing to those new to this experience as the
journey itself offers wonderful scenic opportunities. The car ferry
makes its way through the tranquil Marlborough sounds to the tiny
port of Picton. It was a bit rough on the crossing, as it often
is. Cook Strait is the roughest part of the New Zealand coastline
being a place where two oceans collide. I don't suffer ill effects
of the sea but Cathy is not so lucky, and she overlooked taking
her medication. Do you want me to go into the gruesome details?
As we drove out of Picton the motion sickness was still there so
we parked up a side road, still in darkness. As the new day dawned
it was apparent we were visible from the road and every second car
tooted their rude horns in an obvious attempt to self amuse. Then
the train came. I heard it far in the distance at first; funny I
can't remember any tracks when we parked up. It got closer and became
deafening. Cathy remarked that she hoped we hadn't parked on the
tracks. As the thunderous roar passed, the van rocked side to side.
It turned out we were only three metres from the southern line.
The town of Picton was our first port of call in the South Island
We headed down the east coast to Kaikoura. Koura is Maori for lobster
or Crayfish and Kai is Maori for food. They catch a lot of it on
this rugged coastline. Stop and pick one up for dinner at one of
the many roadside stalls.
Kaikoura is halfway to Christchurch from Picton. It is a place of
envious scenery as the majestic snow covered mountains stand tall
and close to the rocky coastline. As the road passes through the
tunnels we stopped and watched the seal families basking and playing
on the rocks. The short Kaikoura peninsula has become a Mecca for
tourism centred on Whale watching. The Whales come very close to
this part of the coastline in their annual migrations from the Southern
Ocean to the Pacific Islands. Cathy and I enjoyed a walk over the
headland at the end of the Kaikoura Peninsula with wonderful vistas
back along the coast towards the Kaikoura Range.
The Kaikoura Peninsula looking towards the Ranges
Our journey takes us further south through rolling hill country
and down to the flat rural plains of Canterbury. We pass by the
city of Christchurch, which I will touch on when we return here
later in our journey of the South Island. We bypassed Christchurch
and headed south, pulling into a camping ground in Ashburton, about
one hour south of Christchurch.
We did a bit of shopping for warmer clothes in Ashburton. The temperature
difference between our North Island home and the South Island was
starting to make an impression and we both needed to stock up on
thermals. I am very pleased we did because during our trip we would
encounter snow and freezing frosty nights. After a hot summer I
was caught out by the drop in temperature. Why oh why did I bring
three pairs of shorts?
We travelled south from Ashburton into the heart of south Canterbury
and to the port town of Oamaru. We found a holiday park right next
to some very nice gardens. In the off season it's not necessary
to roll into a camp ground till the day's end, but preferably before
7pm. The peak summer season in New Zealand is December, January,
February and into March. April, May into June are the fall or Autumn
offseason months. Fall in the South Island comes a lot earlier then
the North Island with trees at their most golden in mid April to
mid May. Winter sets in for June, July and August but there is no
permanent winter snow, unless you are higher in the Alps. Cold frontal
storms will bring temporary snow to low levels from late fall to
spring and care must be taken with travel plans, especially on the
mountain passes.
Oamaru has an historic area right next to the port complete with
Victorian commercial buildings that make up entire streets. The
buildings are constructed with Oamaru limestone, a white stone block
that is iconic in a lot of early pioneer New Zealand architecture.
We spend two very pleasant hours back in time wandering the historic
streets of Oamaru. Even some of the shop keepers were dressed in
Victorian attire. Oamaru has an annual Victorian festival which
would be well worth a visit. Another one of Oamaru's claims to fame
is the Penguin watching facilities. We bought our tickets to the
evening grandstand to watch a natural performance. As dusk fell
over the coastline the Little Blue Penguins return to their burrows
in groups. Watching the birds waddle up the ramp, across the foreshore
and into their burrows is mesmerising. As the colony returns from
a day's fishing the quiet night becomes a noisy place as the penguins
chirp and quack the day's end. The Penguin watching facilities in
Oamaru are purpose built and even the birds do not know you are
there. Watch out for Penguin crossing signs as you drive down the
headland, so you do not incur any casualties.
Historic Oamaru
The next day we travelled south heading to the city of Dunedin and
into the province of Otago. We did not get far on the road when
we discovered the historic Totara Estate Farm. This was the birth
place of the New Zealand frozen meat trade with England that brought
fortune to a far away land. There are daily tours of the farm, complete
with skits and entertainment by estate staff who dress in Victorian
period clothing. You can also choose to freedom wander among the
historic farm buildings, including the old slaughter house which
is centred in a large pig pen. The pigs would have gobbled the trimmings
and later become food themselves in an interesting but gruesome
cycle of agriculture. Cathy and I capped off our farm tour with
a brisk walk up the hill to the monument. Our efforts were rewarded
with great views over coastal Otago to the Southern Alps beyond.
Our next stop south was the fascinating Moeraki Boulders.
Totara Farm
The Moeraki boulders are on the coast between Oamaru and Dunedin
and are easily recognisable as a major natural tourist attraction.
They are perfectly round spheres of stone scattered along the beach
above and below the high tide mark. You might think these wonders
are carved by the sea but they are actually formed in the Earth's
crust over millions of years. They are now being exposed by erosion
as New Zealand slowly sinks into the sea. There is another popular
myth in our house and that is they are actually dragon's eggs. Indeed
there are some hatched ones to wonder at, so I will leave it to
your imagination. After all, you are in Middle Earth. Dunedin is
not far away from here.
Moeraki Boulders
The southern city of Dunedin is New Zealand's fourth largest city
and is of Scottish ancestry. Its architecture is very gothic with
many historic buildings. Tomorrow we would go into town but our
journey today would take us to the Royal Albatross centre at the
end of Otago Peninsula. We travelled down a very windy and narrow
coastal road along the full length of Dunedin harbour. The Royal
Albatross is the largest of sea birds and this managed colony is
their only mainland New Zealand home. The tourist centre runs frequent
tours of the colony and we got to see a very large fluffy white
chick waiting to be fed and an adult bird making a very clumsy landing
on the headland. With a wing span of three and a half metres this
amazing bird can sour for thousands of miles around the globe as
it feeds off the cold ocean currents. After some wonderful photographic
opportunities on the Otago Peninsula we rolled our mobile bed into
a very tidy camping ground in a settlement called Portobello.
Royal Albatross
Next day we left the coast and drove high into the hills on Otago
Peninsula to be rewarded with some great views of Dunedin and the
harbour. High above the harbour we found Larnoch's Castle. Larnoch
built New Zealand's only true castle over one hundred years ago
and it has since been renovated and opened to the public. Larnoch's
Castle is a must do in Dunedin if you like historic architecture
but there are plenty of other things to do. We spent the morning
wandering the halls and gardens of the castle. After lunch we headed
into Dunedin city to the central block known as the Octagon. The
centre is filled with tempting cafes and the Art Gallery. The gallery
had some works by Monet that caught our eye as well as being a much
needed break from the cold. We then headed out of town and drove
south to Invercargill.
Larnoch's Castle (left) Dunedin Church (right)
On the journey south the road takes you away from the coast, into
lush green rolling hills and down to the Southland plains. Dairy
farming is a huge industry here. The coastal road is one less travelled
and holds a treasure called the Catlins. We intend to back track
up the coast towards Balclutha once we had attended a family wedding
in Invercargill. I suggest you take the coast road if you are travelling
south but do allow two or three days of fine weather to make the
most of the coastline and bush walks in the Catlins.
We arrived to our hotel in Invercargill where we spent five days
together with family who had flown in for the wedding. Invercargill
is the southernmost city in the world and a short drive south will
take you to the end of state highway one and to the small port and
fishing village of Bluff. Oysters are a big industry here, so if
they are in season and available, make sure you get your fill. Many
claim they are the biggest and nicest Oysters in the world. Don't
have too many or there will be no stopping you. The annual Oyster
festival is a big attraction in Southland. The ferry to the smaller
Stewart Island leaves from Bluff and a journey we would like to
do sometime. There are lots of things to do in Invercargill but
a must see is Henry the Tuatara at the Southland Museum. Henry is
said to be well over one hundred years old and the Tuatara species
is about 60 million years old. Henry and his endangered friends
look like mini dinosaurs and it is like looking back in time to
the Jurassic period. They are easy to see and don't seem to hide
in the large glass enclosures. We won't know exactly how old Henry
is till he dies but he may outlive us all.
Henry photo (left) is protected because of photo use restrictions
at the Southland Museum. Images of these creatures are as rare as
the reptile itself and can only be purchased from the Museum website.
Bluff boat (right)
If you don't keep left on New Zealand roads then Henry the Tuatara
may unfortunately outlive you on your holiday travels. Driving tired
is also a big risk for tourists in New Zealand, so freshen up and
get plenty of rest. Especially after those draining long haul flights
to New Zealand.
After the wedding it was back in our van for three days in the Catlins.
The Catlin is a coastal area of south east New Zealand stretching
from just north of Invercargill to the South Otago town of Balclutha.
It is made up of farmlands and nature reserves. The coastline is
rugged and the beech forests grow right down to the coast in many
places. The main tourist trails in the South Island are further
west and include Queenstown and Milford Sound. We will go there
later. The Catlins are often ignored as being too hard to squeeze
in. If you want a quiet and relaxed nature journey then the Catlins
are for you. Pick up a tourist map in Dunedin and enjoy the many
walks to waterfalls, estuaries and coastal vistas.
Catlins coastline
We based ourselves for two nights at the Papatowai camping ground
and planned around low tide to visit the Cathedral Caves. The caves
can be accessed only one hour either side of low tide and not at
all in stormy weather. There is a small charge to access the caves
down a steep walkway over private land. For this the gate keeper
will give you sound advice for your safety. You may find that nature
has closed your window of opportunity and the gate keeper has locked
up and gone home for the day. Having removed our boots on the beach
we gazed in wonder at what the ocean had created. We also walked
wonderful bushwalks to the Purakaunui and McLean waterfalls. The
next day we finished our Catlins experience with a walk to Jack's
Hole and then the light house at Nugget Point. Nugget Point is at
the Balclutha end of the Catlins and is a popular tourist attraction
for good reason. The windswept and rugged coastal headland is accessible
by an easy walking track through tussock and Manuka tea trees, high
above the jagged rocks. The rocks are home to many seals, sea lions
and birds which can be watched from the look outs.
Catlins Photos. Cathedral Caves (left) Nugget Point (centre) Jack's
Hole (right)
Part one of our freedom travel to the South Island ends in Balclutha
where we restocked our cooler bins with food and diesel for our
van. In part two we head across the South Island to Te Anau and
Milford Sound before heading to Queenstown and Central Otago. Join
us in Part
Two
Andrew and Cathy Whyte.
Be aware that if you are involved in the tourism industry in any
of the places we visit then you might like to become a linked sponsor
of this article. See the Ratecard.
I choose not to publish active links to sites of interest in case
they become inactive. A Quick Google search here will bring up valued
advertisers for your queries
Enjoy the following galleries on our website for more photos of
the South Island of New Zealand.
North
and South Otago
The
Catlins Coast
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