Digital Photography 101
Chapter 7: Raw Files and Raw Converters
RAW files are the true digital negatives!
The better SLR (Single Lens Reflex) camera systems can save photos
to a memory card in a format unique to that make and model of camera.
These are called RAW files. For example Nikon has a RAW file format
called NEF.
The same SLR camera will also save files to a card in the more
common and popular JPEG format in various degrees of quality and
size. Most amateur photographers will be shooting JPEG files and
getting satisfactory results. What is the difference between JPEG
and RAW files?
Firstly JPEG files are compressed data, which means much of the
file information the eye cannot see is disregarded in a successful
effort to save memory space. This memory space is measured in Megabytes.
If you are shooting in JPEG format then the camera has done the
compression of the files for you. I suggest you select the highest
possible quality and resolution because you never know how big you
are required to print your file in the future.
RAW files are uncompressed data and about twice the size in memory
as a JPEG file. Some cameras will let you shoot in both formats
at the same time, which can be handy for emailing proofs. You will
want to email JPEG files of course! Why? Because JPEG files can
be read on any computer while RAW files need specialist software
to view and edit images.
The process of converting the RAW data has been taken away from
the camera and placed in the hands of the photographer. The photographer
will be using RAW conversion software to do this. But why bother
if the camera can do this step? The simple fact is that you can
do a lot of essential adjustments to a RAW file that you can't do
with a JPEG, for example, white balance, exposure compensation and
fill light. The software is designed to simplify the workflow of
a professional photographer. I started my Raw File conversion workflow
using Pixmantec Raw Shooter which was bought out by Adobe and turned
into the amazing Photoshop Ligthroom. Raw shooter served me well
but is not being updated to work with new cameras. I was skeptical
at first because of the higher price tag on Lightroom. Now I use
it every day and I can recommend it to anyone. Just buy it, save
hours of time and don't look back. Try it free for 30 days!
A RAW file can be adjusted in terms of exposure (EV Value) though
nothing can beat a correctly exposed photo. Dark images can be brought
to life. Tricky exposure compensation tweaking, you usually do in
camera, can be done quickly in postproduction. White balance control
is another huge advantage. It is easier to adjust an under exposed
darker image then rescue an over exposed photo. Blown out highlights
are white pixels and cannot be fixed without some very talented
Photoshop painting work.

Another big advantage of the software is that it is very fast
at processing the once cumbersome RAW files. You can also grade
your photos and set an efficient workflow. This is my workflow using
Adobe Lightroom.
1.
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Download the RAW files from my memory cards into a folder
on my computer direct using Lightroom. I never delete or format
the cards until I have three copies of my images. You never
know what can happen in those few minutes. Computers can fail.
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2.
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Automated Back up the Original RAW files on to another hard
drive on our network at the same time as I download them into
Lightroom. I also burn them to a DVD. I now have two backups
of my precious images plus the ones I am working on.
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3.
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Grade the images with the available stars.
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4.
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Tweak the images for White Balance, EV, Contrast, Highlight
rescue, Fill Light, Sharpening and more.
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5.
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Batch convert the files to high quality JPEGS or TIFF files
in a destination folder. Prints will be made from these files
so these are called Lab Print Files.
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6.
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Open the images in Photoshop to make any further artistic
or improvement changes.
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7.
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Back up my Edited Client Files on to a DVD and on to another
hard drive in my network.
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It is important to note that the RAW converter will not change the
original files but remembers what we did to them by creating a reference
file holding this data. You may wish to back up these reference
files along with the original files so any changes can be quickly
accessed later if needed.
Another important note concerning JPEG files is that they should
not be resaved more than twice and never over compressed if the
purpose is for printing. If you do the results will be diminishing
images quality such as Moiré and artifacts. When you work
on your photos always work on a copy and keep the original intact,
whatever format you are working in. However I have feel it is safe
to resave JPEG files at high quality many times. I have tested it
and I can't see any degradation of image quality. It is only when
the files are saved at less then high quality, to save on memory
size, that resaving becomes an issue.
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